Acne Treatment: Women Pinpoint the Trigger

From the occasional pimple during times of stress to the familiar breakouts before menses, acne affects almost all women at some time in their lives.

While acne commonly develops during the preteen and early teen years, it can also arise in young adulthood and persist for years. Studies show women feel more frustrated by acne than men do—adult women even more so than teenage girls. Why? Dealing with a chronic disorder typically associated with puberty can lead to great frustration. But don’t despair if you have acne, effective treatment is available.

How acne happens

Your skin is studded with thousands of oil glands that produce sebum to moisturize and enhance the skin’s ability to act as a protective barrier. Sebum within each gland is carried to the surface through pores. The highest density of oil glands is found on your face, especially at the nose, forehead and mid-cheek areas. The largest oil glands are found on the back and mid-chest. This explains in part why acne appears mostly on the face, chest and back.

But what actually causes acne is still unknown. Researchers suspect hormones play a role in pore blockage and increased oil production. A blockage creates the build-up of oil within the pore to form blemishes such as blackheads and whiteheads. “Zits” appear when acne bacteria multiply within the blocked pore, resulting in inflamed red bumps or pustules. Some of these large sacs of oil may rupture leading to large red lumps (also called nodules).

Unfortunately, you may inherit acne-prone skin—particularly the type susceptible to the more severe, scarring forms of the condition.

Prevention

For some patients acne can be aggravated by:

* Thick, pore-blocking creams
* Clothing, hats, helmets or pads that retain sweat or moisture
* Long hair that brushes the skin on your back, neck, and face
* Hair gels and sprays where they may touch your skin
* Sleeping on damp hair

While diet has not been conclusively shown to be an acne trigger, some women may notice certain foods aggravate their skin. Try excluding these foods for two or three weeks and see if your skin improves.
Treatment

Fortunately, therapy can reduce acne, minimize the risk of scars and improve your skin’s appearance. Treatment begins with discovering your acne triggers and learning what treatments will help you control the condition. Choosing cosmetics appropriate for your skin is important, too.

Acne treatment ranges from cleansers, topical gels and creams for mild acne to antibiotic or hormonal pills for moderate cases. Accutane may be prescribed for severe cases. Acne staining can be treated with exfoliating creams and facials while scarring may require the use of fillers, dermabrasion or laser treatments. Full compliance with a treatment program is the key to success.

About the author:
Jerry K. L. Tan, MD, FRCPC is an Adjunct Professor, Faculty of Medicine, University of Western Ontario, Windsor, Canada. He is also Director, Acne Research and Treatment Centre, Windsor, Canada. Dr. Tan’s area of specialty: acne and rosacea.

Chemical Peels 101

With so many beauty products, facial treatments and surgical procedures available these days, it can be overwhelming to choose a treatment that is right for you. First off, when trying any new skincare treatment or procedure, it is always important to do your research, seek out reputable sources and never be afraid to ask questions, after all, it is your face – you only have one, so treat it accordingly. Selecting the right specialist or understanding details of a surgical procedure will be time consuming, be prepared to put in the time necessary to make the best choice. Below are some tips to help you get started.

Choose carefully. The Consumer Guide to Plastic Surgery recommends you:
•    Check educational, training, background credentials and experience to ensure that he or she is well-qualified
•    Ask how many times they have performed this procedure
•    Ask to see before and after photos of patients who have had chemical peels – in some cases offices will give you contact information of previous patients as referrals.

Dermatologists, plastic surgeons, licensed estheticians and registered nurses can all perform chemical peels. However, depending on the type of peel, you might need to see a doctor. Ensure your procedure is both safe and effective.

Schedule a skin consultation. A chemical peel is an aggressive treatment, it’s important that you get an in-depth analysis of your skin beforehand. When at the consultation, make sure the specialist knows your medical history and any prescriptions you may be taking. Be prepared to ask questions, such as what is my skin type? What are my skin concerns? How can chemical peels improve my skin? What kind of peel is best for my skin type?

Become a peel expert. There are three types of chemical peels: superficial, medium and deep. In addition, they increase substantially in cost depending on the peel. The cost ranges from $150 to $300 for superficial peels; $1,000 to $2,000 for medium peels and $2,500 up to $5,000 for deep peels, according to Smart SkinCare:
Superficial: The mildest of chemical peels, superficial peels treat fine lines, discoloration, dryness, roughness and mild acne. Results are subtle and you will need regular maintenance sessions. Estheticians typically perform superficial peels. Common solutions: Alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs (e.g., glycolic acid, lactic acid), salicylic acid

Medium: These peels penetrate deeper into the skin, producing a second-degree burn. Medium peels treat wrinkles, pigmentation problems, sun damage and blemishes. You will need at least a week to recover. You’ll also need several peels to achieve desired results. Common solution: Trichloroacetic acid (TCA)
Deep: These peels target deep wrinkles, dramatic discoloration and skin lesions. Deep peels are the most effective, providing pronounced and long-lasting results. However, they are also riskier with longer recovery time—most people take two weeks off from work. A certified, experienced plastic surgeon must perform these peels. This peel is performed once. Common solution: Phenol

Consider your skin type. Be aware that a chemical peel is not always the best option for your skin type. These are several examples when a chemical peel isn’t appropriate or can be helpful. In most cases, a chemical peel should not be used on dry or sensitive skin. A peel might cause dryness, flakiness, itching and further inflammation. If you have inflammatory acne and deep cysts, you should also consult a dermatologist, as a chemical peel might not be the best treatment for those conditions.

Chemical peels are a good choice if you experience mild to moderate acne or acne scars: The acids in the peel work to both kill active blemishes on the surface and to prevent new blemishes from forming. By accelerating the exfoliation process, a chemical peel delivers clearer, healthier-looking skin.

Become an expert on your chemical peel. Before having the chemical peel, make sure you ask every question possible to ensure you are aware of the entire procedure and its potential complications.
Examples like; what strength is the peel? How many sessions will I need? What are the pros and cons? What kind of discomfort, pain and other reactions can I expect during the procedure? How should my skin react after the chemical peel?

Communication is key in making your chemical peel a safe experience. Clarify you are experiencing normal reactions or seek immediate attention if you think you are not. Remember if something doesn’t feel right, only you can speak up about it.

About two to four weeks prior to your chemical peel, the specialist will ask you to incorporate pre-care products into your daily regimen. These products are designed to thin out the skin’s surface, allowing the peel to penetrate deeper and evenly. Your medical expert might prescribe Retin-A, an AHA product or hydroquinone cream.
When using these new products, you might have to discontinue your old ones. Your specialist will give you specific information about what products to use and avoid.

Depending on the type of peel, your results might be subtle or dramatic. Every skin type reacts a bit differently. Be realistic about the results and fully understand to what degree the peel will improve your skin and whether you will need additional sessions to maintain results.

Best Acne Skin Treatments

Acne, often thought to be only a teenager’s skin problem, is actually a condition that can affect adults both male and female, although it generally begins during puberty. Taking a proactive approach to treating acne is very important. How you look after your skin every day, along with the treatment you and your doctor select are key steps in your fight to eliminate pimples, preventing scarring and eliminating your acne.

There are a number of acne medications that can be used to treat your acne including over-the-counter acne products like Panoxyl®, or prescription drugs including topical treatments, Accutane® and hormone therapies.

Hormonal treatments, including oral contraceptives, have long been recognized by dermatologists to be an effective treatment option for women who have acne, no matter how severe.

Have you been told that you shouldn’t eat chocolate because it causes acne? Or how about French fries? Pizza? Wrong! Those are just myths, and while some foods can make acne worse for some people, researchers have found that it does not cause it!

While acne commonly develops during the preteen and early teen years, it can also arise in young adulthood and persist for years. Studies show women feel more frustrated by acne than men do – adult women even more so than teenage girls. Why? Dealing with a chronic disorder typically associated with puberty can lead to great frustration. But don’t despair if you have acne, effective treatment is available.

Acne Myths: Chocolate and Sex Causes Acne!

Have you been told that you shouldn’t eat chocolate because it causes acne? Or how about French fries? Pizza? Wrong! That’s just a myth, and while some foods can make acne worse for some people, researchers have found that it does not cause it!

There is recent work from Australia that suggests that high carbohydrate foods may in some people flare their acne. The theory is that chronic consumption of high carbs stimulates the excessive production of insulin so that eventually more and more insulin is needed to assist glucose into cells. This is called insulin resistance. The higher insulin may drive the ovaries to produce more testosterone which in turn encourages acne. This may be what is happening partly in a condition called polycystic ovary syndrome.

There are a number of myths about the causes of acne and how to treat it. Here are just a few:

1. Acne is caused by sexual activity.

When you reach puberty, your body experiences hormonal changes that lead to the development and maturation of your sexual features. These hormonal changes may also cause you to get acne. Acne is associated with these changes, not with sexual activity.

2. Cosmetics will make acne worse.

While it is true that many creams, oils and greases can aggravate your acne, there are many cosmetic products you can use that do not, including sunscreens, moisturizers and foundations. Those that do not aggravate acne or lead to development of comedones are labelled “non-acnegenic” and “non-comedogenic” respectively. (See more information about cosmetics and acne)

3. Acne is caused by dirty skin.

If you have acne, it does not mean that your skin is dirty. What may look like dirt inside your black heads is actually melanin, the pigment that provides the natural color in your skin. Cleansing and scrubbing your skin excessively will not help your acne. In fact, it may make it worse. Remember that the causes of acne affect oil glands, which are well below the surface of the skin, so you should avoid over washing. This can dry out and irritate your skin, increasing inflammation and aggravating the situation. The best thing to do is to gently wash your face twice a day with a mild soap and then pat dry. (Check out MildCleanser.ca for more hints)

4. There is nothing I can do to treat my acne. It will go away on its own.

This is not true! While your acne may eventually go away on its own, it can leave permanent scars on your skin that could have been prevented if you had treated your acne. These scars can really hurt your self-esteem, too! There are many treatment options available. Talk to your doctor about which ones are right for you.

5. Only teenagers get acne.

Wrong again! You can get acne at any age. Even babies can get it, and about 25% of all people between the ages 25-44 have acne. Many adult women have acne because of the constant fluctuation of their hormones during each menstrual cycle. Some medications, like birth control pills, as well as being pregnant can also contribute to adult acne.

6. Picking or squeezing a pimple is the best way to get rid of it quickly.

Squeezing or picking can damage the cells under your skin and cause the pimple to be inflamed or leave a permanent scar. As tempting as it is, you will be better off in the long run to leave them alone and let them heal on their own.

7. Sunlight will improve acne.

While it is true that sun exposure will dry out your existing pimples, it will not prevent new ones from forming. For some people, the sun can actually make their acne worse, and some of the common acne medications, like tetracycline and the retinoids can make your skin supersensitive to the sun leading to serious sunburns. When you’re in the sun, it is always wise to use a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher to protect your skin.

8. Acne is caused by stress.

While the ordinary stresses from every-day living do not affect acne, some drugs that are used to treat people with severe stress can cause acne as a side-effect. If you think you may have acne because of a drug that has been prescribed for stress or depression, you should talk to your doctor about it.

9. Some foods can cause acne.

In large clinical research studies, no clear associations have been made between foods and acne. However, some foods can make acne worse for some people. If you suspect that a certain food type is making your acne worse, you can determine if it affects it by avoiding that product for 2-4 weeks. If your acne improves over that time period, then it’s possible that you were right! After a break of a few weeks, you can try eating the suspect food again to see whether you get another flare of your acne. Just remember that a healthy, well-balanced diet is the best choice, and foods like chocolate and French fries should be eaten in moderation. So chocolate lovers, you can still enjoy chocolate now and then without worrying about getting more zits!

About the author:
Richard Thomas, MD, FRCPC is Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology, Department of Dermatology and Skin Science, University of British Columbia, Vancouver, Canada.

Comnbination Skin Health

Combination skin is characterized by a mixture of oiliness and dryness. Typically, the oily areas tend to be the T-zone, consisting of the forehead, nose and chin. The cheeks are normal to dry. The degrees of oiliness and dryness can vary. Pores may be larger in the oily areas – with pimples, blackheads and breakouts sometimes occurring – and dry areas may feel rough and irritated.

The “tissue test” can help you determine if you have combination skin. Take a tissue and hold/press it against your face. If there’s oil on the tissue where it touched your T-zone, but no oil where the tissue touched your cheeks, you most likely have combination skin.

Causes
Many factors can cause combination skin, including hormones, age, genetics, the way in which lipids are organized in our skin and even the weather. Hormonal changes can lead to changes in skin’s oiliness or dryness. Teens and young adults tend to have oilier skin, especially in the T-zone, but with age, hormones change and the oil production may decrease (but unfortunately, acne is still an issue for many adults). Also, hormones change due to menstruation and the birth control pill, which can make skin oilier in certain areas. Lipids also play a role in combination skin: These proteins affect skin’s softness and feel. When lipids aren’t evenly spread throughout the skin, certain areas will feel drier and rougher, while other areas may feel soft but oily or greasy. The organization of lipids in skin is due to genetics and hormones. Finally, weather can exacerbate combination skin. Dry cold weather can cause skin to dry out and become irritated. Conversely, hot humid weather can increase oil production. This can affect your T-zone as well as your cheeks.

Care Plan
Combination skin requires special care to balance the oily and dry areas of the face. Proper cleansing, treatment, moisturizing and sun protection are all necessary.

• Cleansing: People with combination skin often have difficulty finding a cleanser that works for their unique skin needs. Formulas designed for oily skin may leave combination skin too dry, especially in the cheeks, while formulas designed for dry skin may leave combination skin greasy, especially in the T-zone. It’s best to avoid products that are either too drying or too rich. Instead, use a foaming or gel cleanser to get rid of dirt and oil without causing irritation or dryness. A cleanser to try is one that removes excess oil and impurities while still being gentle and not drying out skin.
You should also exfoliate your skin regularly to remove dry, dead, rough skin cells. These cells may be particularly prominent on your cheeks. They can flake off and block pores, causing blemishes and blackheads. Try a product that might include papaya and pineapple juice, olive derivatives and Ginkgo Biloba

Treatments: Treatment products are another important skincare component, helping to balance your skin. One treatment to try is one which moisturizes dry areas but prevents excess oil, especially in the T-zone. This product also contains antioxidants to prevent aging. Another type of treatment is a mask, and you’ll find an array of products for every skin type. Some experts advise using a hydrating/moisturizing mask on dry areas (cheeks) and a deep-cleaning clay mask on oily areas (T-zone). While using two different masks is certainly an option, you can also use a mask specifically designed for combination skin. If you suffer from breakouts, which may occur around the T-zone, use acne treatment products with salicylic acid. For problem skin, try a blemish serum or a spot treatment.

Moisturize: Combination skin needs balance, and part of that balance means moisturizing your skin. Moisturizing is especially important for drier areas of the face, but your entire face needs moisture. Some experts suggest using separate moisturizers – a lightweight one for the T-zone and a deeper one for cheeks. You may choose to use separate moisturizers, but you can also use a single moisturizer designed for combination skin. Try a lotion which balances skin with witch hazel and aloe extract to help skin stay soft. Pay careful attention to dry areas, as they may require more frequent moisturizing than oily areas. Generally, experts recommend moisturizing dry areas twice a day and moisturizing oily areas once a day. Keep in mind that your individual skin has unique needs, so you might want to adjust your moisturizer – how often you use it, where you need it and how much you need.

Sun Protection: Like all other skin types, combination skin needs protection from the sun. UVA and UVB rays can damage skin, so use oil-free sunblock all over your face daily (and on any other exposed areas). Try an oil-free sunlotion or sunblock because it protects your skin from UV rays and won’t make skin greasy.

Natural Treatments
Natural treatments such as aromatherapy oils, home-made exfoliants and masks may help treat your combination skin. For example, try mixing essential oils like chamomile, lavender and ylang ylang (just a few drops) together with your oil-free moisturizer. These ingredients have antibacterial properties and may help to rid skin of dirt or bacteria. However, if your skin is sensitive or easily irritated, or if you’re pregnant, you shouldn’t use these essential oils.

Exfoliating treatments can be made at home by mixing and grinding nuts, seeds or oatmeal along with water. These will slough off dead, dry skin cells – especially common around the cheeks. You can add citrus peels from fruit – like orange or grapefruit – to the mix and apply it to the oily T-zone.
To make a mask for dry areas, use ingredients like yogurt, mashed bananas or avocados to moisturize. On oilier areas, try pureed strawberries and apples.

Natural Approaches to Acne

Acne occurs when the oil (or sebaceous) glands under hair follicles, often on your face, neck, chest, or back, get plugged up, inflamed, or infected. Frequently the glands simply secrete too much of a thick waxy lubricant called sebum that keeps your skin healthy. This blocks the pores and creates a perfect breeding ground for bacteria. Follicles then get red and inflamed.

Hormone imbalances can play a role as well. Sebum increases with the overproduction of testosterone and other androgens in teenage boys, for instance, or with women;s hormonal fluctuations, such as those associated with the menstrual cycle, pregnancy, and menopause. In mild cases of acne, whiteheads and blackheads appear, and maybe some raised red blemishes. In more severe cases, pus-filled cysts and deep nodules form around the inflamed follicles, causing unsightly bumps, tenderness, and often pain.

Natural Approaches to Acne
A couple of herbal products are useful for drying up acne. Topically applied tea tree oil is a natural alternative to benzoyl peroxide. Tea tree oil is fungicidal, antiseptic, expectorant, anti-infectious, anti-inflammatory, parasiticide, and antiviral. Wipe on a 10% to 15% strength solution twice a day.

The herb chamomile also has long been used for easing skin inflammations. Make a strong chamomile tea, and wipe the cooled liquid over your face each morning. This effective daily rinse tones and cleanses.

The holistic understanding of acne is generally the result of hormonal imbalance or toxicity of the bowel or blood. Use cleansing herbs like burdock root, yellow dock root, or echinacea root to help cleanse your blood and remove toxic waste products from your liver. Use bowel-cleansing herbs like yellow dock root and psyllium seed for a week, and repeat once a month for several months, especially if you have trouble with boils, acne, and other skin problems. Take evening primrose capsules. And apply tea tree oil solution externally.

Here’s a helpful tea recipe:

1 tablespoon Oregon grape root

1 tablespoon yellow dock root

1 tablespoon burdock root

1 tablespoon red clover flowers

2 cups water

Put all herbs in water and simmer 30 minutes. Drink one cup of the tea, 2 to 3 times daily.

During a breakout, eat mainly fresh fruits and vegetables, and add a six-ounce glass of cleansing vegetable juice with equal parts of cucumber, carrot, and celery, with a little parsley. Identify and drastically reduce all forms of refined sugar and fried foods in your diet – this includes honey.

Alternate hot and cold compresses over pimples once or twice a day to open the pores, cleanse them, and increase circulation to remove wastes.

Sometimes the skin will show reactions to external factors, such as bacteria, that have led to internal processes, which reflect on the skin instead of manifesting internally. While symptoms on the skin should be attended to, the real problem lies in the weakened defense system, which should be toned and strengthened so that the body will rid itself of infection.

The general guidelines for the treatment of infections also hold true for acne. And if antibiotics have been used recently, at least 1 g of vitamin C should be taken daily.

Chamomile Eases Inflammation and Acne

Chamomile (or Camomile) is a common name for several daisy-like plants. The Greeks named them “earth-apple-on the ground” for their apple-like scent. There are several varieties of Chamomile – each one used for slightly different purposes or intensities of properties. German or blue chamomile and Roman (English) chamomile, or the “garden” chamomile are the most commonly used.

These two types of chamomile are used for health conditions and are most commonly found in skin care or beauty products. While the two kinds are thought to have similar effects on the body, the German variety is more commonly used in the United States. Chamomile, is one of the oldest of all herbs, dating back to ancient Egyptians. It’s both a pretty flower and an ancient healer. Chamomile has been widely used for children and adults for thousands of years for a variety of health conditions.

What It Is Used For

Chamomile is an essential addition to the herbal first aid kit. It is a useful herb in many situations. It can relieve anxiety and calm someone down in the event of stress. It can also relieve gastrointestinal upset – after a big meal, or when stress doesn’t mix well with your meal. Chamomile is even an excellent herb to use as compresses for eye problems. Warm two tea bags with chamomile flowers to ease itchy eyes, especially when traveling to different part of the country and you are not immune to the allergens in that area. It is also used topically for skin conditions and for mouth ulcers resulting from cancer treatment.

How It Is Used

The flowering tops of the chamomile plant are used to make teas, liquid extracts, capsules, or tablets.  The herb can also be applied to the skin as a cream or an ointment, or used as a mouth rinse.

Chamomile in Skin Care Products

This versatile herb is also recognized as a natural healing treatment that helps rejuvenate the skin. There are many wonderful natural facial treatments on the market today that incorporate Chamomile as a key ingredient.

To make a quick and easy tea facial, simply apply a paste made from one teaspoon of fine cornmeal mixed with cooled tea to the face, let dry, then gently rub off. This very gentle skin tonic is ideal to replenish and enrich dry or sensitive skin. Its bactericidal, anti-itching, and antiseptic properties help to refresh the skin and reduce swelling. Making paste with extra-strong brew and using it as an external wash or part of a hot compress can also help soothe burns, skin rashes, and sores.

Chamomile has excellent anti-inflammatory properties. Chamomile contains an anti-inflammatory compound called alpha bisabolol, which helps to soothe itchy, red skin. For this reason, Chamomile along with some other herbs and natural treatments has shown promise as skin treatments for eczema.

According to family physician Dr. Kristie Leong, “Chamomile has been used throughout history to treat various skin conditions and some studies have shown it works as effectively as low dose steroid creams without the side effects. Chamomile oil can be purchased at some health food stores. It needs to be diluted with a carrier oil such as almond oil or jojoba and can then be applied as a skin treatment for eczema. Bathing in warm water containing chamomile flowers may also help to soothe inflammation and itching. Simply make a bath bag using chamomile flowers and float it in a tub of warm bath water.”

For easing skin inflammations and acne, make a strong chamomile tea, and wipe the cooled liquid over your face each morning. This effective daily rinse tones and cleanses.

Essential Oil Usage

Both Roman and German chamomile have excellent calming properties, but Roman chamomile is more effective for irritation, impatience and feeling disagreeable, and has great value in treating PMS and other menstrual and menopausal problems, while German chamomile is superbly effective on the skin, not only to sooth and calm, but to heal and for tissue regeneration.

Side Effects and Cautions

* There are reports of rare allergic reactions in people who have eaten or come into contact with chamomile products. Reactions include skin rashes, throat swelling, shortness of breath, and anaphylaxis (a life-threatening allergic reaction).

* People are more likely to experience allergic reactions to chamomile if they are allergic to related plants in the daisy family, which includes ragweed, chrysanthemums, marigolds, and daisies.

* Tell your health care providers about any complementary and alternative practices you use. Give them a full picture of what you do to manage your health. This helps to ensure coordinated and safe care.